Hike through hell...and back

The last National Park on our list, Capitol Reef. Like I mentioned before, Nate and I set a goal, and for Utah at least, we have accomplished it. But this hike was just one big disaster from beginning to end. Sit down, kick your feet up and I'll tell you the story. **I wrote this way back in June before we moved, needed to get the pictures before I could post.**

Our plan was to hike the Hall's Creek Narrows trail. It was one of the only hikes where there was a guaranteed water source in June, which is important for a three day hike if you don't want your pack weight to be 24 lbs.of water alone (one gallon per person per day). The hike was 22 miles round trip. Totally do-able over three days. We started Friday morning. It takes about an hour and a half to get to the Visitor's Center from Richfield. We got our backcountry permit and started down the 50 miles of washboardy dirt road to the trail head. We made it about 15 miles when this happend:

We (and I use that term loosely) would try to get the car jacked up to take the tire off, and because of the instability of the dirt road the car would roll off the jack. Once that issue was solved with a well placed rock, we noticed a funny looking lug nut on the tire that our tools wouldn't work for. We had NO idea what the issue was and we were prepared to hike back to the main road, 15 miles away. You see, this dirt road that we were on isn't that well traveled. When we first got the flat, a ranger drove by and asked if we needed help. At that point, we thought it's just a flat. Pretty much a one person job. The Ranger said they only travel this road once or twice a week. This was before we found out about the lug nut. Thankfully, we didn't have to wait too long (maybe 30-45 minutes) for another car to drive by. We thought they would just give us a ride out to where we could get cell phone service and we'd use our roadside service. That didn't happen because, thankfully, the guy knew what the problem was. It was a locking lug nut, and we had the "key" in our glove box. You learn something new every day. Nate got the tire changed and at this point, we decided to go back to Richfield to have it fixed instead of continue on that road (an additional 35 miles) without a spare. Here is his handiwork:

Day Two: We weren't easily dissuaded from the hike. We got our tire fixed...well, 4 brand new tires to the tune of $650, but we were on our way again. This time we made it to the trail head.

This is the view down the trail from the top (looking Southwest). What looks like a road is really a river bed. The trail pretty much goes along that (if you can find it) Nothing here was very well marked.

This is the other side (looking North). I'm not too sure what is out that way, but it looks pretty.

Our classic self portrait. This is before we started, so we still look happy.

Now, as I said the trail isn't very well marked after you hike 800 feet down into the canyon. We always try to plan meticulously for our trips. Food, water, shelter, clothes, compass, topographical map, etc...most are essential, but in this case the topographical map was worthless. The terrain is all the same. Hiking down a river bed with cliffs on both sides. We had no idea where we were in relation to the trail map most of the time. It was supposed to be just 8 miles to the Narrows, which we thought we could do easily in one day, camp at the mouth of the Narrows, hike through the slot canyon day two and hike out day three. It didn't work that way. We hiked for what felt like hours and hours with no change in scenery. So we finally found a place to set up camp and get out of the bugs. Yes, bugs. Gnats and biting flies. They were TERRIBLE!!!

Here are some of the pictures from the first day:

Leopard spotted lizard. The first of many.

This lizard scuttled out of a bush when Nate stopped to...uhhh...relieve himself. I think the lizard was hoping it was water, because he ran over so quick that Nate about jumped back. We laughed about this for a while.

You may not be able to tell, but it is HOT!

Working hard.

These balance-type rocks are all over in Utah. It makes you wonder what on earth keeps them that way. Well, gravity, but still....

Hiking through the river bed. It may not look bad, but it was rocky and in places muddy and just a pain.

Finally, a place to stop for the night.

The first (and only) night we spent here was SO hot. We left the rain fly off and slept with our tent door open. The moon was nearly full too, so we had a night light which was way too bright...all night long. At least the bugs were kept out, and eventually went away as the sun went down.

The next day we decided to head out to the Narrows. It was another LONG hike...or at least felt like it. We seemed to hike and hike and nothing changed. We almost decided to just turn around at one point because we didn't really think that there was anything out there. Thank goodness we didn't. Paradise eventually came.

The beginning of the narrows. It gets better, but we were SO happy to have finally made it!

Parts of it definitely qualify for slot canyon status.

That little blue spot is me. It gives the picture perspective.

Yep, water; and the only way to get through was to get wet. We didn't really mind because it was SO hot!

My turn.

Filtering water from a little pool. If it looks silty, that's because it is. Our filter had to work double-time.

This was in a giant amphitheater like area carved out by the river who knows how long ago. It was impressive, to say the least.

After we left the narrows, our goal was to get back to our tent, break camp and get the heck out of Dodge. While the narrows were amazing, cool and bug-free, we only had day packs so we couldn't stay. I'll post a couple of videos at the end that show more of the "whole picture". As for our hike out, we found pieces of the trail that cut out big curves in the river bed. They aren't marked at all where they cross the river, so it was easy to lose it. We both think that the park needs to send a backcountry ranger out there to do a little work, especially if they want to preserve the cryptobiotic soil.

I would say that the hike out was uneventful, but miles and miles through sand just can't be that way. I got blisters from all the sand and crappy shoes (they are going to DI as soon as I get replacements), I accidentally kicked a piece of broken cactus and got some spines in the leg, and I was bit by an ant. That may not sound bad, but it was so painful. I couldn't even walk on my leg right after...and I'll admit I cried. It wasn't the last time on this trip that I did that.

Like I said before the topographical map was horrible. All the landscape looked the same. We had no idea how far we had to go, all we knew was that there was a rock cairn on the river bed where the trail started heading back up the cliff. Let me tell you, we were so excited when we saw that cairn. It wasn't a minute before that I said I couldn't go any farther. It was too hot, the sun was beating down on us with no hope for shade and I only had one liter of water left. At this point though, I felt a little bit renewed. I had a stronger determination to make it to the top. It was just over a mile from that point, but we had to climb up 800 feet. It doesn't sound that bad, but in that heat, under the relentless sun we were in for trouble.

Nate is so strong. He is such a good hiker and outdoorsman, that I just couldn't keep up. I was hoping to get out of this blog with my dignity, but based on what I am about to say it's just not possible. I cried when the ant bit me, and I cried as we climbed the hill. This wasn't a soft sob...I was in distress. I was overheated and literally felt like I couldn't take another step. There was no shade and stopping just prolonged our reunion with the car. Finally, we came to a spot with a large boulder that provided some shade. I collapsed and had a break down. This entire time the bugs were out in full force. The combination of the bugs, sun, depleting water, little food (when it's hot like that food just isn't appealing) caused a severe breakdown for me. We sat for probably an hour or longer to recuperate. Thank goodness for Nate's WFR training. He knew the signs of heat exhaustion and tried to get me cooled down and some sugar and salt in me. I was nauseated, but what little I could eat helped a lot. Once the sun went down things changed drastically. I was still tired, but I found enough strength to get out. Both of us spent alot of time praying on this hike. Heavenly Father definitely cares about us and sends help when we need it. He also blessed us with one of the richest sunsets ever for our troubles. Here are the last few pictures:

 The camera, of course, does not do justice to the colors in the sky! We, however; were just as tired, if not more so than we look.

I did forget one picture...the one of the baby rattlesnake that scuttled along the path in front of me. I've held up this blog for months for pictures. You'll just have to take my word on this one.